Venice
Our Italian dream started at the Venice train station. In Europe they have done an absolutely phenomenal job of building train stations in postcard locations. You only need to reach the city, and you will fall in love with it. I had always seen Venice in photos but seeing it in front of my eyes was different. There were the most intricate and beautifully architectured buildings and churches and along the middle there was the canal. It is so unique- there is no place like it.
July is one of the busiest times to visit Italy so every part of the country is packed with tourists. It took a long time to get through the queues and get onto a boat. We bought a day pass so we had the flexibility to travel to wherever we wanted to go. We were staying by the canal in St Marco. We later found out that this was one of the best locations to be in with most of the most monuments being only a walk/ short boat ride away.
After searching for our hotel which was hidden amongst the narrow alleyways, we dropped off our things in the hotel and then we went exploring. We explored the shops, alleys, and eateries. We ate some of the best gelato from our trip at Suso in Venice. We took a boat to another part of the city as we wanted to make the most of our day pass. We had pre-drinks and some delicious traditional Italian food at a restaurant by the canals. We were given the restaurant recommendation from a local we met at the bar. We have always found that the most authentic suggestions come from the people we spontaneously meet on our adventures.
We saved the gondola ride (a Venetian ‘must do’) for the evening. It was mesmerising and romantic. The advantages of going at night were:
1. It wasn’t as hot
2. The stars and lights were overhead
3. The boatmen were more relaxed and open to conversations in their last rides for the day
We enjoyed talking to our Venetian gondolier as he asked us all about our life in New Zealand, and we asked him all about his life growing up in Venice. It was interesting hearing about his day to day life.
Our next stop was the St Marks Basillica and St Marks Square. Normally you would go to the St Marks Basillica in the day and enjoy the inside and outside of the enchanting square before 4pm (when it closes). Unfortunately with all our exploring we missed the time slot. When we told the gondolier we missed our opportunity, he laughed and said- the best time to go is at night and at midnight! He explained how the beauty was unparalleled at night and while the tours are nice, you can capture the essence of the place at night too. When we reached, the entire square was lit up, with live musicians and an orchestra and crowds of people enjoying the infectious energy and music. The square was so happening and it was right near the water (of course). If you get a chance, we would recommend making a trip to the square once before 4pm and once around midnight.
After our midnight stroll and of course some more gelato we headed back to our hotel. Italy never seemed to sleep- 1am felt like 9pm there.
Rome
Travelling to Rome was like taking a trip back in time. From the moment we reached the train station we saw bits of history dotted everywhere. We could vividly imagine an
d picture all the scenes from the history books as we walked around the city.
We were very lucky with our accommodation location- you could see the colosseum from right outside our hotel. We spent the first few hours in awe, just walking around near the colosseum and other areas. We stopped to have some baguettes before we visited the Pantheon, Vatican City, and the Roman forum. Each monument was like opening a history book. It was definitely one of our favourite places from the trip. The travertine, the marble, the beautiful pillars and entrances- we don’t think there’s another place quite like it.
Throughout our time in Italy and in Rome- we wouldn’t have gelato just once- we would have it twice a day at every opportunity. Of course we made a gelato stop during the day and we also made a stop at a few Italian leather stores.
In Rome the climate was humid and dusty. In the middle of the day it became too hot to wander around so we would recommend planning your sight seeing in the mornings and evenings if you go in July. Another thing we found a little tricky in Rome was bus transport. Often the bus routes and timings would change. We preferred to walk where and when we could. Most of the main attractions are within walking distance if you plan out your accommodation location.
As the sun set we did some more wandering around before we went to one of the best restaurants we have probably ever been to- Tonarello. The massive line and a one hour wait was indicative enough that the food would be incredible. Eventually we got into the restaurant and the ambience was simple- everything was classic and traditional. The pasta was authentic and delicious and you could feel the love that went into making it by hand. The tiramisu was the best tiramisu we had on the trip. We highly recommend booking it for dinner at least one of the nights if you do go to Rome.
At night Rome just keeps providing- there was a lively night market by the canal so we explored that along with other shops which were open till midnight.
The next morning, we went to the colosseum and opted for a guided tour. We highly recommend a guided tour for this location. You are given an earplug that is connected to the guide’s microphone as they take you along in a group. The tour was engaging and it included snippets of history. You could visualise what everything would have looked like. When you buy a ticket for the colosseum, you can get a package where you can access both the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. We quickly visited both of these places before getting ready for our next stop- Amalfi Coast. We wish we opted for more guided tours in Rome as they tell you so much more about the history of the places you go to.
Sorrento/ Amalfi Coast
We reached Sorrento as the sun began setting after a quick stop at Naples for some pizza. The city was shimmering with lights. You could feel the sea salt and humidity. We were staying at Piano de Sorrento which is a train ride/ bus ride away from Sorrento. We chose to stay on this part of the Amalfi Coast because the accommodation is cheaper and it is a short boat trip away from the other islands.
We spent the evening watching the sunset, admiring the cliffs and water, and trying out some local food. We would highly recommend mosquito repellent for the nights at Amalfi. Of course dinner was wine and pasta.The wine there is so reasonably priced that you could do a bottle for every meal. One bottle of wine for two ended up cheaper there than one cocktail for one person in Auckland..
Capri~
The next morning we took a train to Sorrento and hopped onto a boat which then took us to Capri. The amazing thing about Amalfi is you can stay anywhere, and within an hour or so you will reach another one of its islands. Each island has its similarities but it also has its subtle and beautiful differences which make it unique. When we reached Capri the water was this crystal blue. The cliffs with the little buildings and houses hanging on them were such a unique sight. I was always sceptical of all the instagram reels and posts we see floating around. You never know how many filters or edits have been used. Reaching Capri was like watching those reels come to life and yes, it is as breathtaking (if not more) than all the reels.
We climbed hundreds of stairs in the intense heat following the pink bougainvillaea flowers before realising there was a train that goes up and down the steep landscape. After we reached the top we found ourselves in a rustic, busy, square with old yellow, terracotta, and white buildings towering over. We had a bite- of course we had to have the Caprese salad along with a Parmigiana. After that we did some exploring. Capri is a shoppers dream! There is a whole row of designer stores and each of the stores is like a Capri edition with lemony Mediterranean patterns. The souvenirs, art, and little showpieces are creative and intricately made. In Capri the lemons are their specialty. There are lemons everywhere. You have to try the Limoncello which comes in the biggest lemons we have ever seen. In the little stores you will find limoncello liquor in hand painted glass bottles of different shapes and sizes. These make perfect gifts. We brought back a few along with some cute lemon themed decorative pieces. We also bought a bell- there is a shop which tells the story and significance of bells in Capri.
Positano~
Our next stop was Positano- as we reached we saw the same towering cliffs with buildings nestled on the cliffs. In Positano the buildings seemed more colourful. Different pastel shades peeped from the cliffs. We paid to get a spot right by the water. In Positano if you want a good spot with seats, you need to pay and book a spot. There are a few places where you can put down a mat and relax however these are limited. Swimming in the water with the view in the backdrop was a memorable experience. We just wanted to keep living in that moment as the sun started setting.
At Positano, much like in Capri, there are cute souvenirs stores with handicrafts and hand painted ceramics. Some of the places even ship overseas. For dinner we found a spot with a view and of course we had wine and pasta. We would recommend booking a place in advance if you have any specifications for dinner choices. We hadn’t booked so we couldn’t get our first choice.
A Day in Sorrento~
We had a relaxing day on the last day at Amalfi after a tiresome few days of travelling. We decided to stay in Sorrento. We did some exploring as we peeped into shops and walked around by the sea.
For lunch we booked a beautiful spot we found on instagram, O’Parruchiano La Favorita- we saw it and knew we had to experience it. It was like being transported to a whole other land- like a snippet from Willy Wonka’s factory. The restaurant had the most beautiful stone walls and vintage travertine interiors. As you entered, there were lemon trees everywhere creating a canopy of bright yellow as you eat the most authentic and delicious Italian starters, mains, and desserts.
After lunch we went for a stroll and treated ourselves to our daily dose of gelato. We still cannot get over how amazing the authentic creamy gelato is in Italy.
After some more exploring and drinks, we walked right up the hills to a spot which looked over the whole of Sorrento. From here you could see the sea, the cliffs, the lit up hotels, and the glow from the sun as it started saying its goodbye. Our dinner spot was on a beautiful open balcony at a hotel called Terrazza Vittoria. While the food was good, the views were the most special part of the spot.
Florence
Firenze- the first word which came to our minds as we reached our new destination was ‘art’. Each structure and building seemed to be planned out by an artist. The colour palette used were terracottas, dark forest greens, and other Autumnal shades.
Our first stop after dropping off our luggage was Zaza. We had delicious slow cooked lamb there along with pasta. We enjoyed it so much that after coming back to Auckland, we tried to replicate it at home. Zaza has its own cookbook you can buy within the restaurant.
After lunch we wandered around and saw the Duomo, art galleries, and churches. We came across a live artist on the street who was incredible. He captured every detail of his young model. We walked over to a spot where we could admire the Ponte Vecchio.
For the evening we booked a pasta making class. We were so excited to learn something from the locals and we could not recommend the experience more. The class was very well organised- we were greeted and given a glass of champagne. There were two rooms, we were in the room where we got to make three types of pasta: fettuccine, ravioli, and a smaller stuffed version of the ravioli. There was a long dining table and a kitchen counter which we all stood around. We were given aprons and all ingredients and utensils. Our local teacher broke the steps down and came around ensuring we were mixing and kneading the dough correctly. It was so much fun talking to other tourists along with the teacher. A small group meant we got the opportunity to socialise as we made the pasta. We got to use a special pasta guitar to cut the fettuccine into thin strips. We were also taught how we could make the pasta without fancy utensils which meant we could try everything at home.
After we made the pasta, it got sent away to be cooked in a burnt butter/ sauce. As we waited, we got unlimited wine and we got to bombard our local teacher with questions about pasta making and Florence.
We all sat around the long table and chatted as we ate the food made by all of us. Our teacher brought out some chocolate salami (it is not actually salami). After that we headed off and of course we had our daily helping of gelato on our way back. This was our last night in Italy so we had to!
The next morning we wanted to visit the gallery to see the well known David statue. Unfortunately we did not anticipate the huge queue. We had to miss out on the statue so we could catch our train back to Switzerland in time. If you would like to see the gallery, make sure you buy tickets beforehand and line up early in the morning.
Italy Tips and Information
Water: In Italy you need to buy bottled water- most hotels and accommodation will have water. We would recommend carrying around your own bottle as there are drinking water filling spots throughout the cities in Europe. You can even get chilled drinking water. We spotted some locals bringing large canisters where they would fill water from the day.
Charging Ports: The power plugs are the same as the plugs used throughout Europe (different from Switzerland).
Sim Cards: We did not use a sim card and we relied on wifi at different spots along with roaming data. If you are going to other parts of Europe we would recommend getting a card which works throughout Europe.
Food: Have gelato everyday! You won’t regret it. Everything you ever dreamt of having in Italy: pasta, pizza, cannoli, pastries, tiramisu, gelato, wine- is really just as good as you ever imagined it would be! You will not be disappointed. If we had to give our top recommendations for places to eat/ drink they would be:
Suso for gelato (Venice)
Tonarello for pasta AND tiramisu (Rome)
Zaza for slow cooked lamb and pasta (Florence)
O’Parrucchiano La Favorita for the overall experience (Sorrento)
Shops: Shops are open till late- if you are a shopper, you will love Italian shopping. Even their Zara and other outlets have their own stock. Their specialties are Italian leather. You will find beautiful artistic souvenirs. After visiting Switzerland we noticed even more how reasonably priced everything is in Italy.
Public Transport: The trains are very good within Italy however you have to be careful on the buses as the routes are not always as clear. We got around by walking and using the trains with some bus trips too.
Clothing: July in Italy is hot- you will live in your dresses, shorts, tees and other light pieces of clothing. Swimwear is a must. For some churches you will need covered clothing.
コメント